reorganise hardware

Author: roryjamesallen

hardware/3d model/EuroPi 3D Model.blend

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+# 3D printed OLED stands
+
+A simple small stand for your OLED display. This helps hold it in place while soldering and keeps it snug against the face of the module.
+
+> There are two versions of the stand, one for the CPC style OLED and one for the TPH (the Pi Hut) style OLED.
+
+## CPC style OLED
+
+3D print the file [OLED_Stand.stl](OLED_Stand.stl).
+
+Put the stand on something about 5-10mm tall, then solder some component cutoff wire to your OLED so that they fall below the bottom of the stand. Place on your interface board, solder pins to board. Pins may need to be bent slightly for the model of OLED that you're using. Just align the stand and the display and you should be right in the middle of the cutout.
+
+Print upside down for best results/least amount of supports. Should print very quickly on most printers. It takes 30 minutes on an Ender3 Pro.
+
+ <img src="OLED_Stand_01.jpg" width="600" title="OLED Stand">
+
+## TPH (the Pi Hut) style OLED
+
+3D print the file [OLED_Stand_Pi_Hut.stl](OLED_Stand_Pi_Hut.stl).
+
+The TPH (the Pi Hut) OLED needs a different stand because it has a chunky connector on the side (unused by the EuroPi).
+
+ <img src="OLED_Stand_Pi_Hut_01.jpg" width="600" title="OLED Pi Hut style">
+
+- Slide your OLED into the groove.
+- Place the stand with OLED into position on the PCB (hold in place using bluetack).
+- Solder the four vertical wires.
+
+The stand has a notch to avoid certain soldering points. You should keep the stand permanently in your EuroPi for added stability of the screen.
+
+ <img src="OLED_Stand_Pi_Hut_02.jpg" width="600" title="OLED Stand for Pi Hut style">

hardware/3d model/EuroPi 3D Model.stl

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+# Hardware Overview
+There are multiple versions of the hardware documented in this directory, the original EuroPi (through-hole), the new EuroPi-SMD (surface-mount), and a stripboard version (stripboard). Each has a different build guide and bill of materials, so make sure you follow the one you want to build.
+
+The surface-mount version is the simplest to DIY as you only need to solder on the components which stick through the panel, i.e. the jacks, knobs etc. All of the other circuitry is soldered onto the PCB already.
+
+The through-hole version is slightly more in depth as you need to solder on every component, however only through-hole components are used, so this isn't as hard as it sounds. This is the build most people have made and was previously the only publicly available build at all.
+
+The stripboard version is a much rougher layout and does not use a PCB at all, but instead uses 'stripboard'. This hasn't been tested nearly as much as the other two, but people have successfully built it and shared their version on Discord.
+
+# Hardware Specifications
+All hardware variants share the same specifications as the components and schematics are the same.
+
+## Outputs
+- 1k Output Impedance
+- RC filter smoothed PWM
+- ~1.5kHz Maximum usable frequency (without changing RC values)
+- 0.000176V Maximum ripple peak-to-peak
+- 0.0108s Settle time from 0% to 90% duty cycle
+- 0-10V
+
+## Analogue Input
+- 100k Input Impedance
+- 0-12V Readable Range
+- Protected for ±36V (TL074 limits, MCP6002 will always clip to ±3.3V)
+
+## Digital Input
+- 100k Input Impedance
+- 0.8V threshold to read as high
+
+## OLED
+- SSD1306 0.91"
+- 128 x 32 pixels
+- I2C Protocol