RASDR3

[bvacaliuc]

On Mon, Aug 15, 2016 at 10:39 PM Bogdan Vacaliuc bvacaliuc@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Nathan,

Ok. I know that I have not done a good job describing what it is that I'm building for RASDR3 and I did not submit a paper for the annual conference, and so was not entitled to present. There is no difference between RASDR2 and RASDR3 in terms of function. This is what makes a RASDR3:

DigiRed board:

1. change size from 2"x2" to 3" x 5" to match context engineering 3008-series cases
2. remove unused components in the TX side {FX3, connector, power supplies}
3. move 20-pin GPIO header position, expand to 40-pin (some pins not connected) to match Raspberry-PI HAT electromechanical specification
4. move/change USB connector to edge of board and make it full size USB3.0 B type
5. move SMA refclk connector to edge of board near USB connector
6. add power connector, jumper and use correct circuit to enable self-powered operation of the device
7. move/change LEDs to edge of the board
8. move/change PROG/RUN to a switch on the edge of the board

MyriadRF board:
no changes from published RASDR2 adjustments

Case:
Context Engineering 3008F-5N ($17/qty=1) with custom stamping for CW/RX SMA ports on one side, and REFCLK, USB, POWER, LED, PROG/RUN switch on the other side.

With these modifications, there is no need for any inside wiring. While I am at it, why don't I go ahead and describe the assembly process:

1. mount MyriadRF board on to DigiRed board using mounting hardware (provided in kit)
2. fit the RF shield (provided in kit) onto the MyriadRF board
3. slide DigiRed+MyriadRF board into (3rd slot) on Case bottom (labeled)
4. fit top of case (labeled) into groove on top of bottom case
5. attach sticker (provided in kit) onto the flanged end bracket with two holes, and use an x-acto knife to cut out the sticker from the hole (*)
6. fit flanged end bracket onto case with the two SMA connectors poking through the end bracket and secure with 4 screws on corners
7. ensure DigiRed+MyriadRF board is pressed fully forward into the box, and fit SMA washer and nut onto outside of the CW and RX barrels and tighten down
8. attach sticker (provided in kit) onto the flanged end bracket with many holes, and use an x-acto knife to cut out the holes(*)
9. fit flanged end bracket onto end of case, making sure to line up the REFCLK SMA and PROG/RUN switch and secure with 4 screws on corners
10. fit SMA washer and nut onto outside of the REFCLK barrel and tighten down
11. attach sticker (provided in kit) onto the top of the case

At this point, electrical and functional testing may begin.

[bvacaliuc]

This is a very old plan, but I thought it should be listed here for reference.